From Early American Life, Christmas 2004

Make a Dovetailed Doll Chair

by John A. Nelson

I saw this small chair hanging on a wall outside an antiques shop in New Hope, Pennsylvania, years ago. I especially like the dovetail joint holding the sides together. The original was painted and very “weathered.” I’m not sure how this chair was originally used, but it will make a great doll’s chair.

Don’t worry about making the dovetail joints—they are really quite easy to make. If you have never cut a dovetail joint before, this is a great project to practice one on.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1. Study the plans carefully (see bottom of the page to download them). Note how each part is to be shaped. As you study the plans, try to visualize how you will make each part.

Step 2. The two sides, back, and brace—parts number 1, 2, and 3—are irregular in shape and will have to be laid out on 1/2' grids to make full-size patterns. Lay out the grids on heavy paper or cardboard, and transfer the shape of each piece to the appropriate grid, point by point. Or use a copy machine to enlarge the pattern to full size.

Step 3. Carefully cut all of the parts to their overall sizes according to the materials list. Take care to cut all parts to exact size and exactly square (90 degrees). Stop and recheck all dimensions before going on.

Step 4. Glue the paper patterns to the wood using spray adhesive and cut out. Check all dimensions for accuracy. Sand all over with fine grit sandpaper, keeping all edges sharp. Carefully lay out and cut out the tails and pins of the dovetails in the side and brace pieces, parts number 1 and 3.

Step 5. After all the pieces have been carefully made, dry-fit all of the parts; that is, put the complete project together without glue or nails to check for accuracy and snug-fitting joints. If anything needs refitting, now is the time to correct it.

Step 6. Once all of the parts fit together correctly, assemble the project starting with the two sides and brace, using carpenter’s glue and nails. Then fit the other parts to these pieces. Keep everything square as you go. Check that all fits are tight.

FINISHING

Once you have assembled the chair, you are ready to apply a finish. Do not rush this important step—the finish will make the biggest impression for many years to come.

Step 1. Check all joints for tight fits. If necessary, apply water putty to all joints. Allow ample time for drying.

Step 2. Sand the project all over in the direction of the wood grain. If sanding is done by hand, use a sanding block, and be careful to keep all corners sharp. Sand all over using 100- grit sandpaper. Re-sand all over using 120-grit sandpaper.

Step 3. “Country” projects should look old. A copy of an antique that looks new seems to be a contradiction. Distressing can be done in many ways. Using a piece of coral stone about 3' in diameter, or a similar object, roll the stone across the various surfaces. Don’t be afraid to add a few random scratches here and there, especially on the bottom or back, where an object would have been used the most. Carefully study the object and try to imagine how it would have been used through the years. Using a rasp, judiciously round the edges where you think wear would have occurred. Resand the entire project and the new “worn” edges with 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 4. Clean all surfaces with a damp rag to remove all dust.

Step 5. Prime your chair.

Step 6. Apply your first color of paint. I used Benjamin Moore’s Louisburg Green. Let dry completely.

Step 7.With a thin bristle brush apply a medium, even coat of Delta Ceramcoat Latex Crackle in areas of the chair where you want a worn, cracked look. Let dry until tacky. DO NOT LET IT DRY COMPLETELY.

Step 8. Apply your second color of paint. I chose a Rust-Oleum Latex Painter’s Touch Colonial Red. When applying this paint just brush the paint on with long, even, strokes just once. Do not repaint, especially where you applied the crackle, as it will lift off the paint and ruin the look of the crackle finish. As your paint starts to dry you will see the cracks forming. Let dry thoroughly.

Step 9. When completely dry, use fine sandpaper to sand the paint off on the edges of the chair, down to the bare wood. Use steel wool to smooth the few areas where the chair would have worn through the years. Then using 0000 steel wool, lightly rub the whole chair to give it a nice smooth finish. Wipe the chair with a damp cloth so it is completely clean and dust free.

Step 10. Apply Delta Ceramcoat Matte Interior Varnish to the whole chair, even the unpainted back area. Let dry completely.

Step 11. When dry, use a synthetic brush or sponge brush to apply Delta Ceramcoat Black Antiquing Gel to the whole chair. Immediately wipe off excess gel with a cotton cloth. Let dry thoroughly overnight.

Step 12. Apply Delta Matte Interior Varnish to the whole chair. Let dry completely.

MATERIALS

Click here to pop-up a full-size pattern for making the doll chair that you can save and print out. The file is about 600 kilobytes, so it will take a while to open with a dial-up connection.

John Nelson is the author of 60 woodworking books, including the recently published Making Traditional Mirror and Picture Frames and The Complete Guide to Making Wooden Clocks.